Layered Spring Omelet
Layered Spring Omelet
Serves 6
1 tablespoon olive oil
8 ripe tomatoes, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch dice
3/4 teaspoon coarse salt, plus more to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, plus more to taste
21 large eggs
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3/4 cup grated Vermont cheddar cheese
3/4 cup grated Gruyere cheese
2/3 cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves, torn in half
8 ounces spinach, leaves picked and torn in half
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
1 small leek, julienned, for garnish
2 tablespoons snipped fresh chives, for garnish
In a medium saucepan, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add tomatoes, and simmer until almost all the liquid has evaporated, about 25 minutes. Season with salt and black pepper. Transfer tomatoes to a stainless-steel colander, and drain any excess liquid. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a large bowl, combine eggs, salt, black pepper, nutmeg, and cayenne pepper. Lightly beat mixture with a fork. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a 10-inch heat-proof, nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Pour one-third of the egg mixture, about 1 1/2 cups, into skillet. Using a rubber spatula, stir eggs until they just begin to set, about 1 minute. Sprinkle both cheeses on top. Using spatula, gently pull sides of omelet toward center so any uncooked liquid runs underneath. Cook until eggs have almost completely set, 3 to 4 minutes.
Transfer the skillet to oven, and bake until fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove skillet from oven. Place a baking sheet on top of skillet, and invert skillet onto baking sheet, releasing the omelet layer; hold both baking sheet and skillet firmly so omelet doesn’t slide. Set aside in a warm place.
Carefully wipe out the hot skillet with a paper towel. Add 1 tablespoon butter, and melt over medium-high heat. Pour another third of the egg mixture into the skillet, and stir with the rubber spatula until the eggs just begin to set, about 1 minute. Add half of the reserved cooked tomatoes to the eggs. Using the spatula, gently pull sides of the omelet toward the center so any uncooked liquid runs underneath. When the eggs have almost completely set, spread the remaining tomatoes on top.
Transfer skillet to oven, and bake until fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from oven, and place another baking sheet on top of skillet; carefully invert skillet to release second layer. Carefully slide on top of the first one, and set the two aside in a warm place.
Wipe out the hot skillet with a paper towel. Add remaining 1 tablespoon butter, and melt over medium-high heat. Pour the remaining third of the egg mixture into the skillet, and stir with the rubber spatula until the eggs just begin to set, about 1 minute. Add half of the spinach and thyme; incorporate into the eggs. Using the spatula, gently pull sides of the omelet toward the center so any uncooked liquid runs underneath. When the eggs have almost completely set, spread remaining spinach and thyme on top. Transfer skillet to the oven, and bake until fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Invert the third layer onto a baking sheet, and slide on top of the other two layers. Transfer the three-layer omelet to a serving platter, and garnish with leeks and chives. Serve warm.
Grilled Cheese with Pulled Short Ribs
Grilled Cheese with Pulled Short Ribs
Serves 8
2 tablespoons, plus 1 teaspoon grapeseed or canola oil
2 pounds boneless beef short ribs
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 carrot, chopped
1/2 rib of celery, chopped
1/2 onion, chopped
6 medium cloves garlic, crushed
1 cup red wine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon
Sachet (recipe follows)
3 cups homemade or store-bought low-sodium canned beef broth
One 2-pound loaf sourdough bread, cut into 16 slices
12 ounces fontina or Bel Paese cheese, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons Pickled Red Onions (recipe follows)
4 teaspoons unsalted butter, room temperature
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large ovenproof saucepan with a lid over medium-high heat. Season short ribs with salt and pepper and add to pan. Sear ribs on both sides until caramelized, about 5 minutes. Remove ribs from pan; set aside. Add carrot and celery to pan and cook 5 minutes. Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring, until caramelized, about 5 minutes more. Return short ribs to the pan and add wine and sachet.
Cook until the wine is almost evaporated, stirring occasionally, about 6 minutes. Add the beef broth and bring the mixture to a boil. Cover and transfer saucepan to oven; cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 hours. Uncover and continue cooking the short ribs for 1 hour, basting ribs every 15 minutes with the cooking liquid. Cook 1 hour more, for a total of 4 hours cooking time. Remove short ribs from oven and let cool in their liquid, 30 minutes. Transfer ribs to a plate, and with two forks, slightly shred following the natural grain of the meat; set aside.
Raise oven temperature to 350 degrees. Top 8 slices of bread with about 1 1/2 ounces of cheese each. Add 1 teaspoon of pickled onion. Top with 1/4 cup pulled short ribs and a second layer of cheese. Top with remaining slices of bread to form 8 sandwiches. Brush both sides of each sandwich with 1/2 teaspoon butter.
In a cast-iron skillet, heat 1 teaspoon oil over medium-high heat. Working in batches, add sandwiches to skillet, and immediately turn so that all the oil is absorbed. Weight down sandwiches with a small ovenproof skillet; cook for 1 minute. Turn sandwiches, return weight, and transfer to oven. Cook 2 minutes, remove weight, turn sandwich, and continue cooking 1 minute. Remove from oven, and slice sandwich on the diagonal. Repeat process with remaining sandwiches.
Sachet
Makes 1
4 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley
6 sprigs fresh thyme
2 fresh bay leaves
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
One 5-inch piece dark green leek top, washed
Wrap all ingredients in a small piece of cheesecloth. Tie to enclose with kitchen twine.
Pickled Red Onions
Makes 5 cups
2 tablespoons coriander seeds
1 tablespoon mustard seeds
3 medium red onions, cut in half lengthwise and thinly sliced
1/4 cup red-wine vinegar
1/4 cup white balsamic vinegar
1/8 cup sugar
3 fresh bay leaves
3 sprigs fresh thyme
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Toast the coriander seeds in a small, dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add mustard seeds, and toast 1 minute more; set aside. Soak onions in a large bowl of ice water, about 10 minutes. Drain, pat dry, and transfer to a medium heatproof bowl.
Place vinegars, sugar, bay leaves, and thyme in a small saucepan and slowly bring to a boil over medium heat; add reserved coriander and mustard seeds. If mixture seems too acidic, add a little water. Pour mixture over onions and let stand 5 minutes. Drain, discarding liquid, and season onions with salt and pepper. Toss onions with olive oil and store, refrigerated, in an airtight container until ready to use, 2 to 3 weeks.
Pork on Pork Simmered with Bourbon
Pork on Pork Simmered with Bourbon
Recipe courtesy of Frank Stitt
Serves 8
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 pounds boneless pork shoulder, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
2 pounds pork belly, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 medium onions, finely chopped
2 medium carrots, peeled and finely chopped
3 bay leaves, 2 thyme sprigs, and 1 leek top tied together with kitchen twine to make a bouquet garni
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1/4 cup bourbon
2 tablespoons bourbon
3/4 cup white wine
4 cups homemade or store-bought canned low-sodium chicken broth
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In a large heavy skillet, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Season all the pork with salt and pepper. Add the pork, in batches, and brown on all sides, about 12 minutes per batch. Transfer pork to a rack set over a baking sheet. Add onions and carrots to skillet and cook until well colored and almost caramelized, about 15 minutes. Add the bouquet garni and 1 clove garlic. Remove skillet from heat and carefully add bourbon. Return to heat and simmer until liquid is reduced by three-quarters. Add wine and reduce by half.
Transfer vegetables and braising liquid to a large enameled cast-iron casserole or Dutch oven. Add pork, remaining clove garlic, and chicken broth. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, then reduce heat to low. Cover the surface of the liquid with a sheet of parchment paper and cover the pot with a lid. Place in the oven and cook until the pork is tender, about 1 1/2 hours.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer pork to a rack set over a baking sheet. Strain remaining liquid into a saucepan. Set saucepan halfway on burner and bring to a boil over high heat, skimming fat from top, until liquid is reduced by half. Return pork to sauce and cook until heated through. Add butter and swirl in pan until melted; season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Whole Poached Salmon
Whole Poached Salmon
Serving: Serves 10 to 12
1 whole salmon, (8-pound), scaled, gutted, and cleaned (gills removed)
Court-Bouillon (recipe follows)
6 large egg whites
2 tablespoons plus 3/4 teaspoon unflavored gelatin
Fennel fronds, for garnish
1 lemon, sliced into 1/4-inch-thick rounds, for garnish
1 orange, sliced into 1/4-inch-thick rounds, for garnish
2 or 3 kumquats, sliced into 1/4-inch-thick rounds, for garnish (optional)
Rinse fish under cold running water, washing away any blood around the gills, which would cloud the stock. Pat the fish dry inside and out with paper towels; place on a clean work surface. Trim the fins from the back, belly, and near the gills with a pair of kitchen scissors. If the fish is too long to fit in the poacher, remove the head and tail with a sharp knife; cut off the tail right below the tail fins.
Cut a double thickness of cheesecloth 17 inches wide and 8 inches longer than salmon. Place the cheesecloth on a clean work surface. Lay the fish lengthwise on the cloth, and wrap the cloth around the fish. Tie the ends of the cheesecloth with kitchen twine.
Place the rack in the bottom of the poacher, and fill with the cooled court bouillon. Using the ends of the cloth as handles, lower salmon into the poacher, adding water if necessary to cover the fish. Cover, and set the poacher over two burners. Bring the liquid to a simmer; reduce heat to very low. Cook at a bare simmer for 25 minutes (the water should not be boiling).
Slide a wooden spoon through each handle of the poaching rack; lift out the rack, and prop the spoons on the edges of the poacher so the fish is elevated. Raise one of the spoons to lift the side of the rack that supports the head end, and expose the widest part of the fish's back. Insert an instant-read thermometer near where the fin was. The fish is fully cooked when the temperature registers 135 degrees;. (For a larger salmon this may take up to an hour.) If the temperature is too low, return the fish to the liquid, and continue poaching, checking the temperature every 10 minutes.
Using two wooden spoons as described in Step 4, remove the rack from the liquid, and prop it on top of poacher at an angle to drain, reserving court bouillon. When salmon is cool enough to handle, about 15 minutes, transfer to a clean work surface; let cool completely, about 45 minutes.
To make the aspic glaze, pour the court bouillon through a fine sieve. Place 6 cups of the bouillon in a stockpot. In a separate bowl, whisk 6 egg whites until frothy, then whisk the whites into the bouillon. Whisk the mixture over medium heat until it comes to a simmer, about 10 minutes. The egg whites will draw all the cloudy particles out of the stock and begin to coagulate on top. Stop whisking, and simmer until all the foam has risen to the surface and the broth below is clear, about 15 minutes
Using a slotted spoon, carefully lift out the foam. Soak a 12-by-12-inch piece of cheesecloth in ice water. Squeeze out any excess water, and line the sieve with the cold cheesecloth. Pour the broth through the sieve. Repeat, using fresh cheesecloth each time, until all the foam has been removed from the stock. Place 1/3 cup cold water in a small bowl, and evenly sprinkle the gelatin over the top. Let sit until gelatin is softened, about 10 minutes. Add the gelatin mixture to the clarified stock, and bring to a simmer over medium heat, whisking constantly, until all the gelatin has dissolved; do not boil. Remove from the heat.
Unwrap the fish, leaving the cheesecloth in place underneath. If the head and tail are still attached and are in good shape, you may want to leave them on for decoration. If not, remove the tail with kitchen scissors. The head will pull off easily. Turn the fish over, so that the side that was on the rack faces up. Peel the skin off using a paring knife and your fingers.
Using cheesecloth to support the fish, flip it onto a serving platter, skin side up. Remove the skin from the top of fish. Using the back of a paring knife, gently scrape off any brown fat. Decorate the salmon with your choice of garnishes. Arrange the garnishes on top of the fish; temporarily secure with toothpicks. Pour the aspic into a large bowl set over an ice-water bath. Stir the aspic until it begins to thicken, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the aspic from the ice bath, and ladle a coating over the salmon. Refrigerate the salmon 20 minutes. Repeat the glazing process, if desired. If the aspic becomes too thick to ladle, warm in a double boiler until liquid again. Remove the toothpicks. Keep the salmon in the refrigerator, uncovered, up to 24 hours, or until your guests arrive. (The aspic coating keeps the fish from drying out.)
When ready to serve, clean away any collected aspic around the bottom of the fish; cut with a fish server. Start at the wide end of the fish; slide the server under or between the garnishes, rather than cutting through them. Cut down to the bone, working the server gently between the flakes. Lift a section of the fish with the garnishes on top, and transfer to a dinner plate. Continue cutting and serving as needed.
Court-Boullion
Makes 6 quarts
Court-boullion is a traditional poaching broth for fish. Store the broth in airtight containers, and refrigerate for up to three days or freeze for up to three months. If using a fish poacher, fit a 10-quart poacher with the rack in the bottom, and place poacher over two burners.
7 quarts water
1 bunch fresh thyme
1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley
1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon whole fennel seeds
1 bottle (750 ml) dry white wine
1 leek, white and pale-green parts only, sliced into 1/4-inch rounds, washed well and drained
2 medium carrots, peeled and sliced into 1/4-inch rounds
1 lemon, washed and sliced into 1/4-inch rounds
3 dried bay leaves
2 tablespoons coarse salt
Fill a large stockpot or fish poacher with water (about three-quarters full). Bundle thyme, parsley, peppercorns, and fennel seeds in a small piece of cheesecloth to make a bouquet garni, and place in stockpot. Add remaining ingredients.
Cover pot, and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Remove lid; gently simmer 30 minutes. Remove from heat; discard bouquet garni. Use immediately, or let cool completely, about 1 hour, before storing.
Salmon Baked in Parchment Paper
Salmon Baked in Parchment Paper
Serves 4
4 salmon fillets, 6 to 8 ounces each
1 leek, sliced thin and well washed
Dry white wine
Olive oil
1 chervil or other fresh herb, chopped
Unsalted butter, melted
Heat oven to 350 degrees. Fold a 24-inch sheet of parchment paper in half, and cut out a heart shape about 3 inches larger than fish fillet. Place fillet near the fold, and place a handful of leeks next to it. Drizzle fish with wine and olive oil, and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and chervil.
Brush edges of parchment paper with melted butter, fold paper to enclose fish, and make small overlapping folds to seal the edges, starting at curve of heart. Be sure each fold overlaps the one before it so that there are no gaps. Brush the outside of the package with melted butter. Repeat with rest of fillets. Put packages on a baking sheet, and bake until paper is puffed and brown, about 10 to 15 minutes.
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